The Perfect Gentleman recently spoke to Peter Jeun Ho Tsang who is a lecturer at the London College of Fashion and creator of his own Coeur brand of Menswear.
We wanted to establish the likely fashion impact of the new Great Gatsby blockbuster film, which is released this week. The film is set in 1922 in America at the heart of the decadent Jazz age. The fashions are stunning and as Peter explained, fashion houses and retailers have been anticipating and planning for the release for some time.
We wanted to know what the impact of the film would be on today’s fashions.
Peter explained that actually it is necessary to work backwards, as the film was originally due to be released last year. Because of this there has already been an impact on catwalk fashions because as early as summer last year. Designers were working for the 2012 in anticipation of the release and so you did see some hints of 1920s silhouettes in both men’s and ladies wear last season.
The overall trends in menswear include wider trouser legs, three piece suits, trilby hats, formal but contemporary and the correspondent shoe which have made an appearance with some of the more leading edge retailers like Hackett. The fabrics will be more classical but given a contemporary twist.
Many of trends were seen on the high fashion catwalks but because the film wasn’t released they failed to come across strongly into mainstream fashion as the film wasn’t available to give the fashions the support for the mass market.
He believes that there is a possibility of something of an anti climax as trying to carry the trend over two years may actually stunt the growth of the Great Gatsby influence. Peter explained that trend forecasters would have anticipated its impact in 2012 and to some extent things have moved on.
However, with the film being released this week the evidence of the ‘Gatsby Effect’ will be seen in spring /summer 2013. There will also be an impact in Autumn/Winter 2013/2014.
The key areas of fashion Peter says we should watch for are:
Oxford bags are going to be to the fore for autumn/ winter 2013/14. The current trend for extremely skinny trousers has run its course; it’s not possible to get any skinnier.
All lapels are very skinny with jackets fitted to the waist. A very clean fitted look. But again lapels can’t get any skinnier so everything has to get wider. The 20’s saw wider lapels with peaks. Tommy Hilfiger’s summer collection referenced Savile Row Style and saw wider trousers and lapels with some great classic materials like Prince of Wales check and wide pin stripes.
Many of the leading edge houses will reference the classic fabrics but freshen them by using a classic base colour and then use a more modern quirky pin stripe in a bright colour. Or a check with a more modern colour or over sized check. The 1920’s with a twist.
Peter referenced super model David Gandy’s look at a recent show wearing a blazer with a waistcoat with a white t-shirt underneath. Possibly a look that suits a super model but not for every Gentleman.
Peter believes that hats will be a feature with Panama’s in the summer and Christie emerging as a classic brand with a pop up in Liberty which he recommends. The flat cap will take off, and baker boy’s caps for those who are less daring and who can’t wear a trilby.
Peter believes that the Correspondent shoes which will be seen in the film are likely to be a short term statement shoes, only worn by some at the leading edge of fashion. However the film will encourage a re-emergence of brogues, which in fashion terms came back a few years ago and died down but they will take off again but with a modern twist again, in this case featuring different colours and materials
In the long term combining the look of the film with the current trend for vintage clothes will come together to influence the fashions well into 2014. The silhouette and vintage/made in Britain & tweed is likely to be a strong influence for the future.
So the conclusion is that the dandy will be gentrified and head to the Hamptons, so get ready Gentlemen.
Peter Jeun Ho Tsang was in conversation with Nic Wing
Peter Jeun Ho Tsang
Menswear designer Peter Jeun Ho Tsang, trained at London College of Fashion, where he now lectures. Peter’s menswear brand coeur is a contemporary British menswear lifestyle brand for the modern day dandy. Ingrained into the products is the signature 100% silk jacquard fabric woven exclusively at one of England’s finest fabric mills. Luxurious and colourful, fused with slim cut clothing and quirky men’s neckwear for the youthful and confident gentleman.