The acquisition of a good quality suit that fits is a delightful experience. But – like most of life’s more worthwhile occupations – it is not without its complexities.
Step 5: Determine the style
The Jacket
One button, two button or three button? Double-breasted or single? It all depends on your body shape and the current styles at the time of your purchase. The two button single breasted suit is the safest look on most men, a short man is often suited to a one button suit. You can discuss your options with your tailor, as he has probably seen every suit style.
The double-breasted jacket normally shows six front buttons, two of which fasten. This may be increased to eight, three of which fasten. In my judgement, the style in which only the lowest button fastens does not permit the jacket to sit well.
The jacket length is a matter of choice, but a normal length means that, with your arms hanging loosely by your sides, your fingers should curl up naturally under the bottom of the jacket.
The rear vents on a jacket allow comfort and movement, you can have one, two or no rear vents. But no vents is really only suited to dinner jackets.
Sleeve length when relaxed should show three-eighths of an inch of shirt at the cuffs
Each cuff should have four buttons. As with all the visible buttons on the suit, they must be made of real horn (with a bespoke suit real horn buttons will be used automatically, on made to measure suits it will probably be imitation horn or plastic.The cuff buttonholes should to be working, some tailors like to make two real buttonholes and two sham ones on each cuff, to facilitate future alteration of the sleeve length. This spoils the appearance.
While you will be wearing cuff buttons which work, it is not proper – indeed, it is the height of vulgarity – to leave any of them open in public.
Lapel buttonhole
The left lapel of a single-breasted jacket should have a buttonhole for the wearing of a flower, with a loop on the underside of the lapel to secure the flower stem. A double-breasted jacket (and a single-breasted jacket with peak lapels) might in addition have a buttonhole in the right lapel – but this is a matter of individual taste. Some argue that this second buttonhole adds an appearance of balance; others hold it is over-fussy. I am undecided.
You can discuss your options with your tailor, as he has probably seen every suit style.
The Trouser
Trousers do not hang properly without the assistance of braces. Provision for braces should therefore be made.
Lining
An inner silk lining to the front of the trousers, down to about the level of the knee, will prevent any unpleasant rubbing of the woolen cloth on the skin of your leg.
Pockets
Front pockets on flat front trouser look modern but are impractical to use, side pockets are the best all round choice.. Rear hip pockets are a temptation to carry items which might ruin the line of the jacket and are best avoided.
Pleats
Again flat front trousers give the cleanest and most modern look but for comfort one or two front pleats on either side of the front should be stipulated. They can point outwards or inwards, according to taste.
A zip is fine on a made to measure suit but a bespoke suit should have a button fly.
Lapel buttonhole
The left lapel of a single-breasted jacket should have a buttonhole for the wearing of a flower, with a loop on the underside of the lapel to secure the flower stem. A double-breasted jacket (and a single-breasted jacket with peak lapels) might in addition have a buttonhole in the right lapel – but this is a matter of individual taste. Some argue that this second buttonhole adds an appearance of balance; others hold it is over-fussy. I am undecided.
You can discuss your options with your tailor, as he has probably seen every suit style.
Step 6: Personalise it
The beauty of a tailored suit is that you can add personal touches to make your suit look genuine and unique. Whether it’s specific types of buttons,linings, embroidery, pockets just ask the tailor. The options will be greatly less with a made to measure service. Most tailors at this point will expect to be paid a deposit of half the final cost of the suit to cover production costs.
